There are traders selling battered car doors that lean tidily against each other, unfamiliar spare parts; some look like gearboxes, transmissions, clutch assemblies, starter motors, and suspension springs;many in unsorted piles of scrap metal or conversely neatly arranged across the ground. Need a clutch assembly for your Hindustan Ambassador and you'll have to search through heavy steel casings coated with either grease or rust, one mutually exclusive parts; some look like gearboxes, transmissions, clutch assemblies, starter motors, and...

Day-break; the darkness lifts rapidly and the road from Feria to Burguillos del Cerro winds from side to side, rises, falls, and looks out from the Puerto, the high point above the village, over an escarpment to countless islands in an ocean of fog that swells around them. They’re not Grecian islands in the Aegean Sea; the cold wind bites, the air is damp, and with my back to the mountain I’m reminded of Sierra Vieja’s frosty shadow as it casts itself over my shoulder, and the brume of Burguillos that wraps itself around the distant hills...